1996: First contact with climbing – coached by Roland Mittersteiner/Italy

2000: First multi-pitch route on limestone

 

Alpine ascents 2004 - 2009:

Patagonia:

“ Kompressor Route ” - Cerro Torre within 12h

“Claro de Luna“ - Saint Exupéry

 

Trango Valley/Pakistan/Karakorum:

Shipton Spire (ca. 5700m):

First repeat of "Woman and Chalk" in the 1200m high East Face in 5 climbing days. First complete ascent to summit.

Grade: up to 8a (according to first ascentionist), ice up to 90°, 36 pitches.

 

Nameless Tower (6239m)

"Eternal Flame" alpine style in two days from Trango Base Camp and in 8 hours from sunterrace to summit.

Grade: up to 7c+ (7b, A2), 28 pitches

 

Little Shipton (ca. 5400m):

New route "Winds of Change" up the 550m high E Face, also first ascent of this peak in alpine style.

Grade: up to 7a+, 14 pitches


Alps and Dolomites:

“Trilogie” – Tre Cime – within 12 hours

„Via Italia“ (8a) - Piz Ciavazes – redpoint

„Steps across the border“ (8a) – Marmolada – redpoint

“Jean Couzy” (8a+) – Cima Ovest – redpoint

„Bisogne essere veloci “ (8a+) – Feltriner Dolomites - redpoint

„Millenium“ (8a) – Marmolada – onsight

„With or without you“ (8a+/8b) – Schüsselkarspitze –redpoint - first repeat

“Silberschrei” (7c) – Heiligkreuzkofel – first ascent – no bolts

„Via della Cattedrale“ (8a) - Marmolada – first onsight ascent – no bolts

“Vogelfrei” (8b/8b+) – Schüsselkarspitze – first redpoint ascent – 14 pitches

 

Norway :

„Arctandria“ (8b) – Blamannen – first one day free ascent – 10 pitches

 

Oman :

“Al Hamar” (8b, 8a, 7a) - Jabel Shams Plateau – first ascent

“Flying Pegs” (8+) - Jebel Misht – first ascent – no bolts

“Fata Morgana” (7c) - Jebel Misht – first ascent

“Dattelklauber Sigi” (7) – Jebel Misht – first ascent – clean

Sport Climbing first ascents up to 8b

 

Yosemite Valley :

“North West Regular” (7b) – Half Dome – onsight

“El Nino” (8b) – El Capitan southeast face – redpoint

“Nose” – El Capitan within 10 hours

 

Cochamo Valley – Chile :

"Meataholic" (7c+) - Cerro Trinidad - first ascent – 10 pitches

"Somedays Twice" (7c) - Cerro Laguna - first ascent – 10 pitches

 

Free Solo:

„Don Quixote“, (6a) on Marmolada

„Comici“ (6b) on Tre Cime within 1h

“Tempi moderni” (6c+) on Marmolada within 2h 40min

„Il pesce“, 7b+, 37 pitches, Marmolada within 2h 55min

„Locker vom Hocker“, 7a, 10 pitches on Schüsselkarspitze

 

Sport Climbing:

Onsight ascents up to 8a+

Redpoint ascents up to 8c+

First ascents up to 8b+

 

Gritstone:

“Gaia” (E8/6c) – Black Rocks

 

 
(c) Hansjörg Auer