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Climbing Biography
1996: First contact with climbing – coached by Roland Mittersteiner/Italy 2000: First multi-pitch route on limestone
Alpine ascents 2004 - 2009: Patagonia: “ Kompressor Route ” - Cerro Torre within 12h “Claro de Luna“ - Saint Exupéry
Trango Valley/Pakistan/Karakorum: Shipton Spire (ca. 5700m): First repeat of "Woman and Chalk" in the 1200m high East Face in 5 climbing days. First complete ascent to summit. Grade: up to 8a (according to first ascentionist), ice up to 90°, 36 pitches.
Nameless Tower (6239m) "Eternal Flame" alpine style in two days from Trango Base Camp and in 8 hours from sunterrace to summit. Grade: up to 7c+ (7b, A2), 28 pitches
Little Shipton (ca. 5400m): New route "Winds of Change" up the 550m high E Face, also first ascent of this peak in alpine style. Grade: up to 7a+, 14 pitches Alps and Dolomites: “Trilogie” – Tre Cime – within 12 hours „Via Italia“ (8a) - Piz Ciavazes – redpoint „Steps across the border“ (8a) – Marmolada – redpoint “Jean Couzy” (8a+) – Cima Ovest – redpoint „Bisogne essere veloci “ (8a+) – Feltriner Dolomites - redpoint „Millenium“ (8a) – Marmolada – onsight „With or without you“ (8a+/8b) – Schüsselkarspitze –redpoint - first repeat “Silberschrei” (7c) – Heiligkreuzkofel – first ascent – no bolts „Via della Cattedrale“ (8a) - Marmolada – first onsight ascent – no bolts “Vogelfrei” (8b/8b+) – Schüsselkarspitze – first redpoint ascent – 14 pitches
Norway : „Arctandria“ (8b) – Blamannen – first one day free ascent – 10 pitches
Oman : “Al Hamar” (8b, 8a, 7a) - Jabel Shams Plateau – first ascent “Flying Pegs” (8+) - Jebel Misht – first ascent – no bolts “Fata Morgana” (7c) - Jebel Misht – first ascent “Dattelklauber Sigi” (7) – Jebel Misht – first ascent – clean Sport Climbing first ascents up to 8b
Yosemite Valley : “North West Regular” (7b) – Half Dome – onsight “El Nino” (8b) – El Capitan southeast face – redpoint “Nose” – El Capitan within 10 hours
Cochamo Valley – Chile : "Meataholic" (7c+) - Cerro Trinidad - first ascent – 10 pitches "Somedays Twice" (7c) - Cerro Laguna - first ascent – 10 pitches
Free Solo: „Don Quixote“, (6a) on Marmolada „Comici“ (6b) on Tre Cime within 1h “Tempi moderni” (6c+) on Marmolada within 2h 40min „Il pesce“, 7b+, 37 pitches, Marmolada within 2h 55min „Locker vom Hocker“, 7a, 10 pitches on Schüsselkarspitze
Sport Climbing: Onsight ascents up to 8a+ Redpoint ascents up to 8c+ First ascents up to 8b+
Gritstone: “Gaia” (E8/6c) – Black Rocks
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